In Bilico

In Bilico

...suspended between climbing history and the rock climbs in the Primiero Dolomites

  • Author: Maurizio Zanolla
  • Publisher: Osteria taci cavallo editing
  • Pages: 416
  • Year: 2013
  • Languages: Italiano - English
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416 pages, hot off the press. 53 crags. More than 1000 routes, of which 244 are multi-pitches. Countless topos and sketches (very beautiful), plus numerous photos, some historic, that span the entire evolution of sport climbing. And then of course there's the author: Maurizio Zanolla, aka Manolo. This, in short, is the resume of "In Bilico", in delicate balance, an evocative title to the new guidebook not only because it recalls that beautiful and incredible sheet of rock suspended up there between the "folds" of Val Canali in the Italian Dolomites.
With this introduction we might already have said everything, or almost, as a new guidebook published by Manolo is, in itself, a minor event and a certain guarantee. But there is of course the subtitle: "suspended between climbing history and the rock climbs in the Primiero Dolomites". Yes, because the book includes stories about the area's climbing history written by the "Wizard" himself. The history and those stories that he (and others) engraved into the rocks of his Primiero Dolomites. One anecdote not to be missed is how he discovered the legendary Totoga crag where he forged important stepping stones in the evolution of sport climbing, such as the amazing Il Mattino dei Maghi, Lucertola schizofrenica, and Terminator...
But "In Bilico" is not just the story of Manolo. This guidebook is, in fact, testimony to all those who have loved the Primiero crags and, at the same time, an act of love for those rock faces and the climbs. Proof for this stems from the fact that over 2 years were needed to collect all the material, as well as the verve and precision with which Cristina Zorzi, Manolo's wife, took care of the graphics. Add to this the beautiful photos by Walter Bellotto, Paolo Calzà, Daniele Lira, Oskar Piazza, Narciso Simion and Manolo. And the extraordinary collaboration with award-winning cartoonist Paolo Cossi who drew the beautiful Baule topo. And there is of course the beautiful cover drawn by Jimi Angelo Trotter, with Manolo searching for an impossible balance (hovering, in fact) that seems to be the perfect synthesis of thought applied to climbing.
By the way ... one often says that climbing (and alpinism) is the combination of thought and deed, but adding a little love and imagination certainly wouldn't hurt, either. And this guidebook, one page after the next, captures your attention and confirms this theory. All that remains to be said therefore is that this guidebook was produced by Manolo himself - just like the previous one published a decade ago - and that it will be distributed directly by the award-winning family Manolo & C. But before signing off and wishing you a great read and happy climbing, we like the idea of combining Manolo's recent editorial effort with his latest climbing achievement. The route is called Pappagorgia (double chin) and was freed just a few days ago? Where? Unsurprisingly at Il Bilico...


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